I used to go surf as the sun was setting when I was younger - and I’d get so angry on my drive there, thinking I only have 45 mins - and while I was surfing I’d be so miserable 

Recently I realized sometime ago - that I don’t do this anymore. Is it a willingness more to get in the water because I want to even if the circumstances and conditions aren’t great? I don’t know what’s changed but

creating and destroying; flying cars, roc.camera, july.rocks /july /faust

Reading this as I’m about to put on my wetsuit for a 45min surf in the fog ha