Have watched enough of 100 Foot Wave to get the gist so appreciated this short review to confirm am ok not watching the rest. Much as I love the waves, no longer find maniacal focus interesting.

“Big wave surfing is perilous in every way, from the physical danger the athletes accept to the financial precarity they endure. It takes a very particular kind of person to sign up for such a life, and most of them constantly question whether the adrenaline highs, athletic achievements, and close-knit professional community are worth what they choose to give up in stability, safety, and the people who can’t or won’t come with them every time they take off after a swell.”

p.s. might turn this into a Buttondown newsletter qc thread, to swim upriver against the current pulling everything into SS

Have watched enough of 100 Foot Wave to get the gist so appreciated this short review to confirm am ok not watching the rest. Much as I love the waves, no longer find maniacal focus interesting.

“Big wave surfing is perilous in every way, from the physical danger the athletes accept to the financial precarity they endure. It takes a very particular kind of person to sign up for such a life, and most of them constantly question whether the adrenaline highs, athletic achievements, and close-knit professional community are worth what they choose to give up in stability, safety, and the people who can’t or won’t come with them every time they take off after a swell.”

p.s. might turn this into a Buttondown newsletter qc thread, to swim upriver against the current pulling everything into SS 

https://buttondown.com/lizziewade/archive/the-richest-text-on-television/